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Find Cat Breed Information And Information On Shorthair Cats

Sunday, November 16th, 2008
A cat is a small felid mammal that has been domesticated for several years. The word cat most usually means a domestic or house cat, even though people used to refer this as member of a feline family. For instance, people often refer tigers, lions, and jaguars as the large cats.

Domestic cats hailed from the inherited wild species such as Felis silvestris, the African and European wild cat. In recent times, people consider a domestic cat as a separate species and call Felis Catus.

While looking at the appearance of domestic cats, they are same as their wild relatives. Even many behaviors such as hunting down and other routine activities remain to be as same as their inherited form. The first ever domestication of cats took place in Egypt.

In 4000 BC, the Ancient Egyptians domesticated cats to protect their grain stores from rats and mice. They considered cats as goddess Bast’s avatars. If any person killed cats, he/she would be given death penalty. At times, when domestic cats died, individuals arranged for mummification as similar to human.

Nonetheless, by 500 BC, the Greeks started to domesticate cats and spread this practice throughout the world. Recently, domestication of cats is very popular all over the world, mostly by the colonist from Europe.

Varieties of Domesticated Cat:

There are several names to domesticated cats, each with unique features and legacy. However, because of some common interbreeding in colonized regions, several cats are merely recognized as family members of homogenous varieties of domestic shorthair and domestic longhair, depending on their hair types.

Tortoiseshell (UK) or Calico (USA) cats have various colors. Bicolor cats are partially white. A tabby cat features stripe around its skin. A male domestic cat is a tomcat and similarly a female domestic cat is a queen.

A young domestic cat is a kitten. A domestic cat whose heritage is officially registered is a pedigreed cat or purebred cat or a show cat. The breeders and owners of these domestic cats contend against one another to see who breeds well.

Less than 1% of the entire domestic cats are purebred cats and the rest 99% have varied ancestry, known as moggies or more often domestic shorthairs and domestic longhairs.

Common Domesticated Cats:

Domestic shorthaired cats and domestic longhaired cats are the two major kinds of domesticated cats, which are popular all over the world in recent years.

Domestic shorthaired cats do not represent a renowned cat variety or feature a pedigree, instead they are popular for their wide array of colors around their body. This could be of any color or a mixture of various colors.

Domestic longhaired cats come with moderate or long hair. Their standard colors include tortie and tabby and/or are bi-colored. These cats are excellent family pets, especially for people who are ready to give their hair the additional care it requires.

However, with a little research work, people can ensure themselves to determine the right type of domestic cats for their own needs.

By: Martin Marks

About the Author:

Go to Cat and Kitten Zone to get your free ebook about Cats and Kittens at Cats. Cat and Kitten Zone also has information on Kittens, Cat Supplies and a Cat and Kitten Forum where you can connect with others who love cats and kittens. You can Find Cat and Kitten Zone at www.catandkittenzone.com.

Cat Trees

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Finding the Perfect Cat Tree for your Cat, not as Easy as you Might Think

Saturday, November 8th, 2008
Many cats need a good amount of stimulation in order to keep them from becoming board, and we all know what a board cat is capable of! Cat trees provide that type of stimulation.

Most people wonder what to look for in a cat tree. As a cat tree manufacturer and a cat breeder, I would like to point out what is important to me.

Safety first:

All cat breeders know what mischief our cats are capable of. If there’s danger in your house, your cats are going to find it. Not only is the cat tree manufacturer responsible for making a well built, safe cat tree but the cat owner is responsible for using good judgement in the selection and use of it..

First, make sure the design of the cat tree does not compromise safety. Only purchase stable, well built cat trees. Beware of cat trees that are cheaply made and can collapse under the weight of your cats. You also want to purchase a cat tree that will not tip over when your cat , who has invisible wings it seems, takes a flying leap and lands on top or on the side of the tree. You have to take into account that smaller, lighter cat trees will not be as stable when used by a big, heavy cat, but even if you buy a small cat tree there are ways to test for stability. You can test your cat tree before purchase by taking it through the tip test. Tip the cat tree a bit and see if it falls over or if it rights itself (be careful if it’s a large tree, you don’t want a large tree falling on you and the store might not appreciate you knocking over all of the large trees in the place). Rock it a bit to see if it stays upright. It’s ok if the tree sways some with the movement of the cat, that’s normal, but it is not OK if the cat tree tips over easily.

If you purchase your tree from an internet website you won’t be able to put it through the tip test, but you can always ask for customer testimonials to see how other customers feel about the stability of the products you intend to buy. Be sure that there is a return policy in case the tree does not meet stability requirements, however, also be sure to read and agree to the store’s return policy before you make the purchase. Many stores will not let you return a used product so be sure to take the tip test before you let your cats use the tree.

Your cat tree should be sturdy enough to surface clean and sanitize. There are a large number of cats trees on the market that are made with cardboard tubing as the core of the structure. I don’t recommend cat trees made with cardboard because cardboard may not hold up well, especially if you surface clean your cat tree regularly with anything moist. If you have a cat tree with cardboard tubing as the main supportive structure, be sure to inspect it regularly for any weakness.

Many cat trees use toxic chemicals, dyes, and glues in the manufacturing process. It is not a good idea to use a cat tree with any of these items, particularly for cats that tend to bite at the carpeting and materials used on cat trees.

Be sure to buy a tree suitable for it’s purpose. Don’t buy a carpeted cat tree for outside unless it will be in an area protected from rain and moisture. If you keep a carpet and wood cat tree outside, even under a covered patio, moisture may still cause mold to develop on or inside of your cat tree.

For outside cat furniture, make sure that the cat house is suitable for cats. Most outdoor houses on the market are designed for dogs and not for cats, so do your homework when looking for those type of items.

Now for owner responsibility in the use and placement of the cat tree. As the owner it is important that you use good judgement when finding a suitable spot for your cat tree. Don’t put your cat tree in any area that cats might get hurt jumping down from the tree or if they should fall from the tree, particularly if the tree is very tall. One time someone reported that they placed a tall cat tree at the top of 3 flights of stairs. The stairs were open all the way to the basement. For unknown reasons the cat fell from the top of the tree and fell down three flights of stairs, landing on the basement steps. I’m happy to report that there were no serious injuries, but this was a lesson learned for that poor cat owner who chose the wrong spot for her cat tree!

My own cats spy their 6 foot cat tree from the 10 foot balcony in my house wanting to jump all the way over to the cat tree. My husband thought about putting the cat tree under the balcony so they could get onto the top of the cat tree from there. I thought it was not a wise idea because I did not want to encourage my cats to play balancing acts on the balcony rail, and if we ever moved the cat tree they might still think that they can play on the balcony. Instead, I keep the cat tree on the other side of the room and reprimand my cats when they get on the balcony. I plan on putting patio netting over the front of the balcony to keep them off.

There are other hidden dangers that the cat owner needs to beware of. Some cat trees are very large and heavy. You want to be sure that you keep large dogs and children away from and off off your cat trees. Large dogs might be able to tip over the cat tree and children like to climb on them and they might fall from the tree or knock them down on top of themselves. Make it clear to your human children and your non feline furry children that it is NOT OK to play on or around the cat tree.

Dangling toys can also be a huge hazzard for playful cats. I heard a report about an accident from a person tying a long, thin bungee type of toy to a cat tree. When the owner was out of the room the cat hung herself on the bungee cord. The owner came back into the room just in time to save the cat! If you want to put a danging toy on your cat tree, make sure it is not long enough for the cat to wrap around it’s neck.. Bungee type of toys can be particularly dangerous because they stretch.

You want to be cautious about any toy that is hanging from anywhere, be it doorknob or cat tree.

Finally, don’t do anything stupid like put a tv set on top of the cat tree trunk. It sounds really off the wall but I have heard of really strange uses for cat trees.

Accessability:

Make sure the cat tree you intend to purchase is accessible to your cats. There are all kinds of situations that call for a really accessible cat tree. Your cats may be old, overweight, declawed, or have health issues. If you have large cats, will your cat tree be large enough to accommodate them? Will they fit into the cubby holes or house(if the cat tree has holes or houses)?

The cats also need to be able to get up and down the tree easily or they probably wont use it.

A good idea is to get a cat tree that you can purchase additional parts in case your tree needs to be more accessible. If the cat tree looks like a cat tree, can your purchase extra branch steps? If it looks like a regular, multi level structure, can your purchase more steps? It’s also a good idea to purchase some sort of ladder for cats who are declawed (I am not a supporter of declawing but should you end up with a declawed cat you need to be able to accommodate it too). Your cat trees are no good unless your cats like them and will use them, so be sure your cat tree is designed with your cat in mind. We’ve had take a second look and to improve the accessability of our cat trees over the years.

Durability:

Durability is not only an issue of getting your moneys worth but also of safety. Most mass manufactured cat trees on the market today are made with the cheapest materials possible. As stated previously, many use cardboard tubing as the main support structure. Cardboard is not very durable, especially if you clean your cat tree. All plywood has some amount of chemicals in it, however, press board and chipboard has a large amount of undesirable chemicals in it and is not as durable as plywood or solid wood.

Fabric is not as durable as carpeting, which is thicker and can stand up to cats scratching better. Of course, no carpeting is going to last forever, but you will get more bang for your buck if your cat tree is carpet covered rather then fabric covered.

Appeal:

Appeal is more important then most people think. Not only should the tree appeal to your cats but it should appeal to you and your visitors. The cat tree should be designed in a way that is attractive to your cats. If a cat tree is designed with cats in mind, usually cats will take to it instantly. Many cats are territorial, so if you have a large number of cats or territorial, cats it is recommended that you buy a large cat tree with multiple, separate spaces for each cat to claim as it’s own.

There are certain materials that most cats are attracted to. Cats like warmth and softness when sleeping and they like things they can really dig their claws into when playing. Having a cat tree that provides spaces where you can put soft, warm cat beds is always a plus, as is having a cat tree that can withstand rough play.

Next we want a cat tree that will appeal to our design and style. It does no good to spend $2000.00 on a new leather sofa and thousands on decor if you’re going to have a big, ugly, rickety cat tree sitting in the middle of your livingroom! The idea is not to detract from your decor, but to add to it. There’s no reason you should compromise your style because you have cats to please (although your cats would tell you different). If that is the case, you might as well pick up the 70’s checkerboard sofa sitting on your street corner and throw that into the living room for your cats to use as a scratching post. Of course, different people have different styles, likes and dislikes, so my idea of attractive might not be yours, but im sure you get the drift.

Finally, we come to PRICE::

It’s not true that 100% of the time if you spend less you’ll get less and if you spend more you get more, but generally speaking, you get what you pay for.

I’ll let you in on a not so secret, secret. I’m a penny pincher. I drive my family crazy. Let me tell you a story about my uh – hmmm…”penny pinching abilities”. When I was in school my father would take us to a restaurant every morning to eat breakfast before school. I’d buy the heaviest meal, and eat well every morning because I knew he’d give me $2.00 for lunch everyday. I never used the $2.00 to buy lunch. Instead, I would starve myself all day to be able to save the $2.00.I would go home famished but never broke. I saved so much money that way that when my other family members needed to borrow money they knew I always had some to lend them. Sure, I lent them the money, but I always charged interest! So what’s the moral of my story? If you can save a buck or two, please do. That being said, I never, ever, will compromise quality to save money. I feel that if you’re compromising quality to save money, then you really haven’t saved anything, in fact, you’ve lost money because it will be just that much faster that you’ll have to replace the item. I also, never buy anything im not 100% happy with buying. I won’t settle for second best because to me, second best is money not well spent. I don’t mind getting used items, but I have to be sure that those are of good quality as well. When it comes to cat trees, it’s not a good idea to get a used cat tree unless you know the person who your getting the cat tree from and know that the cats who used the tree are disease free. There are a terrible amount of diseases and parasites that can hide in cat trees.

If you’re anything like me, and I suspect that you are since I’ve done business with probably thousands of cat breeders and pet owners, you spend inordinate amounts of your cats but nothing on yourself. I’ll wear the same pair of tennis shoes until they fall apart (husband has to sneak into the closet and get them and throw them away because he knows I will wear them till I’m waking on insole liners held together with shoelaces), but when it comes to my cats, I have to have the latest, greatest and cutest. So, if you’re like me, I feel bad for you, but at least now you know how to find a perfect cat tree for your beloved furbabies.

By: SittingPrettyKitty

About the Author:

SittingPrettyKitty manufacturer of unique, custom made cat trees and cat furniture. Visit our website at www.sittingprettykitty.com

The Pet Supply Guy

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Important Cat Care News

Thursday, November 6th, 2008
You’ve brought your kitten home. You’ve got her set up with all her needs. Now, you’re faced with some of the more puzzling aspects of cat care. You’re wondering about declawing. And that’s just for starters. Not to worry.

First and foremost, realize that the first step to successful cat ownership is to love your cat. Filling in the blanks on the information you don’t know yet will come. And here’s some information and knowledge to get you started. Of course homeopathic care for cat is something that is all over the news right now, but there’s actually a lot more to know then that.

Yes, cats shed. And the shedding of a long-haired cat is more noticeable than that of a short haired feline. Expect your cat only to shed at the change of the seasons. That’s not so. Because of his exposure to a constant temperature and continual artificial light, your indoor cat sheds year round. But it’s not nearly as bad as it sounds.

Here’s a good piece of important cat care information, cats take care of a lot of their shedding on their own. They are fastidiously clean animals. You’ll discover they are constantly cleaning themselves with their rough, sandpaper-like tongues. The very mechanism, though, that helps them to control shedding also contributes to one of their health problems, hairballs. Hairballs are a very real threat to your cat’s digestion. They can block the food that’s already been digested from traveling through his intestines.

So how can you tell when your cat is experiencing hairballs? You’ll be able to recognize them if he coughs them up – as cats are prone to do. If you find cigar-shaped masses of some indistinguishable matter on the floor or on your furniture, you’ve discovered a hairball.

Sometimes, though, a cat will expel them along with his ***** in the litter box. If you find that your cat’s bowel movements have hair on them, that means he’s got hairballs. Another symptom your feline may exhibit is dry coughing or a hacking. This will especially occur after he’s eaten. In fact, if your cat has a sudden, unexpected loss of appetite, you may suspect a hairball is at the root cause.

So how do you prevent hairballs? Take matters in your own hands, literally! Brush! Brush! Brush! Groom you kitty often. Most cats find it most enjoyable and it builds a marvelous bond between you and your feline.

If you discover that your kitten may need more aid than this, there are many effective hairball remedies on the market today. They come in a variety of forms, from granules you sprinkle inconspicuously on his food to gels.

Thinking about declawing?

If you haven’t heard, declawing your cat so he doesn’t ruin your furniture or accidentally seriously scratch an individual is controversial. A generation ago, this operation was routine, many times performed at the same time the kitten got spayed or neutered.

The public today, though, is more widely educated on exactly what surgery for declawing entails. It’s not just a matter of pulling the claws out of the kitty. To remove a cat’s claws, a veterinarian must actually amputate the cat’s paws at the first joint. This would be the equivalent you getting your knuckles amputated right below your finger nails. Ouch!

In order to perform the surgery, your veterinarian will anesthetized your cat as well as give him pain medication. He will literally cut the first section of your cat’s paw off, since the claws are intricately intertwined in the first “knuckle.”

Following the surgery, your cat’s paws are carefully bandaged. Your cat will undoubtedly spend the night at the animal hospital. The following day you’ll be able to bring her home.

Be prepared! Your cat – understandably – will be distinctly uncomfortable for several days following the surgery. (Actually, she’ll probably be in great pain. But felines are wonderful actors. Cats **** to show that they’re in any type of pain.)

Considering, though, the extent of the surgery, your cat heals quite quickly. You’ll notice that your pet walks around the house rather gingerly. That’ll last for about a week. After that she’ll back to her old self.

To help prevent infection, you should replace her litter with some shredded paper. This avoids getting granules of litter in his already very tender paws.

Declawing your cat does more than just eliminate the problem of scratching. Her claws -and that portion of the toes that are removed, are valuable to her in another vital way. Removing her claws may throw her entire system of natural balance off.

A cat, you see, is classified as a “digitigrade.” It’s a strange label, but essentially it means that she walks on her toes. But, a cats toes are used for so much more! Her entire balance and form are based on the length of her digits. Nature, it seems, designed the cat’s body – including her back, shoulders, paws, leg joints, ligaments, muscles, tendons and even her nerves! – based on walking on her toes. Because of this, her weight is distributed across its toes as it walks, runs and climbs.

That means a cat’s claws are absolutely essential for her balance as well as for her ability to exercise effectively. Not only that, her toes – and especially her claws are vital aspects of her stretching. Notice when your cat scratches at a post (or, yes, your furniture!). We all assume she’s just sharpening her claws. Not so! She is really stretching her entire body. When you declaw your kitten, it throws her entire body alignment off.

Hairballs and declawing. Not usually subjects that come up in everyday conversations, now are they? But these are only two of the important bits of information that every cat owner needs to know in order to give Fluffy the best of care. That, and your love, will help your kitten live a long and healthy life.

By: Jim Moore

About the Author:

From experience Jim Moore knows all to well that your cat is one of the family and as such deserves all the care and loving attention you can give to them. Jim owns and maintains A Purrfect Cat at: http://www.apurrfectcat.com .

Dog Houses

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Feral Cats Can Make Good Pets

Thursday, October 23rd, 2008
Many people feel that feral cats cannot be kept indoors as pets. This is not true. In fact, feral cats are happy being kept as indoor only pets if you don’t attempt to treat them exactly like tame cats.

What are Feral Cats?

Feral cats are cats that haven’t been properly socialized. What this means behaviorally is that feral cats are not tame toward humans. Very often, feral cats result from the offspring of cats that were once owned and then abandoned. As a result, the kittens are not properly socialized to humans and become feral.

There is a critical period during kitten development in which kittens must be exposed to human caretakers, otherwise they will be feral or at least semi-feral. This critical developmental period is generally from birth to 8 weeks old. If the first human exposure occurs past the age of 8 weeks this usually results in a feral or semi-feral cat. Sometimes older feral kittens can be tamed toward one or two human caretakers.

What to do if You Find a Feral Cat or Kitten

Many well meaning cat lovers will find feral kittens and take them to their local animal shelter. Unfortunately, feral kittens aren’t very adoptable and most of the time animal shelters will destroy the feral kittens to make room for tame kittens that are more likely to be adopted.

Fortunately, there are some shelters that will spay or neuter the kittens and then return the kittens to their natural environment. This at least gives the feral cat a chance to live without the ability of producing more feral cats. This program is called Trap-Neuter-Return, and it is being implemented in many areas to control the outdoor cat population without having to kill the cats. It generally works like this: The kittens are caught in a humane trap, such as Havahart live animal traps. The animal is unharmed. Then the cat is taken to the vet or the shelter that participates in Trap-Neuter-Return and the animal is spayed or neutered and is usually given some vaccines. When the cat has recovered from the spay or neuter surgery the cat is returned outdoors in the same location where it was found. Trap-Neuter-Return is a much more humane way of dealing with feral cats and kittens than euthanasia.

Feral Kittens Can Also Make Very Rewarding Pets

Some people who find feral kittens take them into their homes as pets. This can be a very rewarding experience as you gain the trust of these special cats. It is also the best option for the well-being of the feral cat or kitten. Taking them into your home as a pet is even better than Trap-Neuter-Return programs. Taking them in as pets generally works best if you catch them when they are relatively young. The younger the better, although some people have taken older feral cats into their homes as pets and they have been fine.

It is also best to take in two feral kittens or cats from the same litter if possible. If this isn’t possible it is best to have at least one other cat in the household because feral kittens and cats really enjoy the company of other cats.

Feral cats need to be kept as indoor only cats. Cats sometimes behave differently once they get outside. Because feral kittens and cats don’t trust humans very much they may be fearful of approaching your house once they are outside and they may get lost. In general, they are very fearful of any humans other than the human caretakers that they have grown to trust.

I have four feral cats that have lived with me for about 2 years now and they have been very happy indoors. Three were caught when they were 10 weeks old and the fourth cat was caught when she was 12 weeks old.

For the first few weeks after I brought them in the house, all of the kittens used to hiss when I walked by them. Eventually they came to trust me and stopped hissing when they saw me. In fact, now they greet me at the door after work. When I wake up in the morning they come up on the bed to greet me the very first thing. They love playing with toys and with each other. They are still semi-feral, but there is nothing more rewarding than seeing how happy they are and knowing that they are indoors where it is warm and safe.

However, they aren’t exactly like other cats. For the most part you can’t pick them up. One of the kittens lets me pick her up and kiss her on top of her little head, but the other kittens don’t allow it (Actually, they are no longer kittens, but they still seem like babies to me). However, they do like to play toys with me, and except for one of them, they do like to be petted and to have their fur brushed.

Feral cats and kittens would not make good pets for children. Basically feral cats that live indoors with humans like to do their own thing most of the time. They don’t want to be held and will usually only let you pet them on a limited basis. Because of this they are likely to scratch a child that attempts to have more contact with them than the cat wants. The key to making a feral cat happy is to only have as much contact with the cat as it wants.

Also, you need to give the shy ones extra space when they are using the litter or eating. Sometimes it is best to keep their litter and food bowls in low human traffic areas so that they can feel safe while eating or using the litter box.

Vet trips can be difficult because they don’t always allow you to pick them up to put them into the pet carrier. However, there are ways to do it. Sometimes you can throw their favorite toy into the carrier and they will run in to get it and then all you have to do is shut the cat carrier door.

Feral cats are well worth the extra work and they are the best pets ever! Also, because they only want limited contact with humans you generally don’t have to worry about them walking on your keyboard while you are typing or laying across you newspaper or book while you are reading.

In my opinion there is nothing more rewarding then gaining the trust of these cats, especially if you don’t mind taking their special needs into consideration. The reward comes in knowing that you are providing a loving, warm, happy home with plenty of food, water, toys, and veterinary care for these special cats.

For more information about feral cats and cat and kitten information please visit About Cats Online.com

By: Angela Ralano

About the Author:

ngela has a master’s degree in psychology and is currently working on her doctorate. She is a fitness enthusiast and cat lover. She also maintains the Web sites Official Fitness and Health.com and About Cats Online.com

Hybrid Cars

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A Detailed Guide to Grooming your Cat

Monday, October 6th, 2008
To keep your cat happy, healthy and clean it is essential to properly groom your cat. By reading this section you will learn how and when to groom your cat and also what equipment to use. You will learn how to brush your cat, bath your cat, how to clean your cats ears and how to look after your cats teeth.

Brushing and combing your cat

Cats spend 10 percent of their waking hours grooming themselves by licking dirt and excess fur of their coat but this is not enough to properly keep them clean and some cats do not clean themselves properly. You should brush and comb your cat on a regular basis. Short-hair cats are much easier to groom than long-hair cats. If you are unsure of what your cat is, visit the breeds section. When you are grooming your cat you should be alert and checking for fleas, scars, wounds and lumps.

The first thing you need to know is the difference between a cat comb and a cat brush. A cat comb is used to remove excess hair, remove knots and to remove dirt. A cat brush is to fluff up the fur and make it smooth and look good. If you own long-hair cat I would recommend buying both a comb and a brush as you will learn later on, if you own a short-hair cat it is not as important but you can if you want.

You could alternatively choose to buy a cat grooming kit which includes a comb, brush and everything else you need. You can buy the right equipment from your local pet shop but you could also consider buying online. There are many different combs and brushes to choose from and all of them have their advantages and disadvantages. If you want to get the best results and not spend a fortune you should buy a wide toothed comb, a brush and a flea comb. This should all cost under $10 USD.

It is a waste of time brushing your cat with a normal comb/brush. The advantages of using a cat brush is that it shelters the natural body oils, the bristles gently remove tangles and after brushing your cat it will have a shiny, good looking and healthy coat. But most importantly it is designed to remove excess hair, then in future when your cat cleans itself it does not swallow as much hair, preventing it from having a hairball.

If you have a kitten, it should be brushed from an early age so it becomes accustomed to the process and doesn’t find it a scary and distressing experience. It will enjoy the grooming procedure but most of all you will not have to train it later on in its life. If you have an adult cat that does not like to be brushed and finds the experience frightening, introduce grooming slowly and do not make the sessions more than five minutes. If this does not work you could try ending the grooming session with playtime so your cat will look forward to it each day. One of the most important things to remember is that a short session each day is better than a long session each week.

As I briefly mentioned before, short hair cats are easier to groom than long-hair cats, it is a bit more difficult and the process can take a bit longer. If you own a short-hair cat you should groom it on a weekly basis or every few days and it should take from 5 to 10 minutes. If you own a long-hair cat grooming should be done everyday or every two days and it should take about 10 to 20 minutes. By now you are probably thinking ‘how can you brush a cat for 20 minutes’. The grooming process is not just brushing but is also cleaning nose and ears if necessary and sometimes brushing your cat’s teeth. For more information about these, read on.

To groom your cat, follow these easy steps:

-Place your cat on a bench or table. It depends on what your cat is most comfortable with; some owners brush their cat on their laps.

-Gently brush from head to tale using short and gentle strokes with your comb to remove knots, do not pull hard otherwise it will hurt and distress your cat, making the experience unpleasant and enjoyable. For best results also brush under its neck and stomach. If you have a flea comb, brush again from head to tale.

-Use a brush to fluff up the fur, if you are unsure of what brush to use ask your local pet shop. A cat brush is good for your cat’s appearance and health and can be brought from a number of different places.

Bathing your cat

It is not necessary to bath your cat unless it becomes very dirty. Most people who have prize-winning cats bath their cat on a regular basis. Many cats do not like water and find a bath a frightening and traumatic experience. If you ever need to bath your cat, the below information will tell you how. The first thing you need to do is to brush your cat to remove excess hair and dirt. Talk to your cat with relaxed voice to keep it as calm as possible and do no make quick movements. Have everything ready before you start which should consist of 4-6 towels, shampoo, a hair dryer and cotton balls. You can use special cat shampoo or you can use regular shampoo but it really doesn’t make a difference.

Use cotton balls to protect water from getting into your cats ears. If your cat has smaller ears use only half or even a quarter. If you have a bathroom or laundry hose, use it because it makes it much easier. If you don’t have a hose use a cup or plastic container. You should not wear good clothes because the chances are that you will end up as wet as your cat. Wash your cat in a bath or a laundry sink. Start by wetting it with warm water. Avoid wetting its eyes and ears as much as possible unless it particularly dirty.

Hold your cat firmly because it will try to escape and probably bite and scratch you. Once the cat is wet apply shampoo and gently massage. If your cat is really dirty you can shampoo twice. Rinse your cat from top to bottom and make sure you get all of the shampoo out. Use the towels to dry your cat as best as you can then finish the job off with a hairdryer.

Cleaning your cats ears

Cleaning your cat’s ears should be a part of your grooming routine. To get rid of the dirt and wax, use a cotton swab but never go deeper than you can see because it can cause permanent damage to your cats hearing. It should be done every month.

Dental Care

Many people do not brush their cats teeth often enough, some have never done it. If your cat’s teeth are not brushed, bacteria will build up and could result in loss of teeth. You should brush your cat’s teeth every week. If you have a kitten you should start brushing when all of its 36 teeth have grown which is around 6 months of age. If you have an adult cat, introduce slowly and keep the sessions short.

You can buy special toothbrushes designed for cats but a child’s toothbrush will be just as good, just make sure the bristles are soft so they do not cut the gums. Do not use normal toothpaste because it will cause digestive problems and make your cat sick. You can buy special cat toothpaste from your pet shop, vet or online.

To properly brush your cat’s teeth start by gently brushing the outer surface of the teeth. Do not brush the inside of the teeth until your cat is used to the process. Brush in a circular motion from the bottom of the gum to the tips of the teeth. Some cats require professional cleaning when there is a severe build up of tartar. When brushing your cat’s teeth note the condition of your cat’s gums.

Consult your vet if the gums are swollen, if there is any bleeding, bad breath, drooling, dark spots, sores, refusal to open mouth or reluctance to eat. If your cat has any of these symptoms there is a chance that it has gum disease. Gum disease is common in cats and can be fatal unless treated. It begins with the build up of plaque and tartar which causes the roots to become infected. This can be prevented by regular brushing.

By: Andrew Mcgregor

About the Author:

If you liked what you read here, visit http://www.petguide-online.com for more information on all aspects of caring for your pet/s. The site consists of a huge range of detailed information on cats, dogs, birds and fish.

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Choosing the Right Litter Box for Your Cat

Friday, October 3rd, 2008
Household pet cats definitely need litter boxes in which they do their business. Just like people, these feline friends can get finicky over this matter, so it is very important that they make sure the litter box they have for their pet cat suits the cats preferences; after all, it is the cat that is going to use it. But the owner should also consider his own convenience regarding this matter; he should consider his budget for the cat box as well as the ease of cleaning it.

Choosing the perfect cat box can be beneficial to both your cats health as well as the owners. The important thing is that the cat box must be appealing to the cat and comfortable for use. Rest assured, the cat’s satisfaction also guarantees success.

In finding the perfect cat box, here are some things that must be considered:

Size and Depth

This maybe determined by the number of cats there are in the home. However, it is ideal if the number of cats in the home determines the number of cat boxes available rather than the size. For kittens, shallow cat boxes, no more than three inches deep are advisable. For adult cats on the other hand, those about six inches high are desirable. The prescribed area of the litter box is at least 24 inches in length or width.

Material of the Box

Heavy and durable plastic is the most advisable material for a cat box and is also the most inexpensive variety in stores. Plus with their simplicity in style, cleaning can prove to be a breeze.

Ease of Cleaning

Basic flat boxes are easy to clean because of their simple design. There is no need to remove any lids or covers to scoop or clean. However, some cats frequently kick litter out of the box so if you choose this option, you had better have a whisk broom and a dust pan always at hand.

Covered boxes usually minimize the trouble of having cat litter and waste scattered outside the box since they have hoods which keep all the litter inside. Covered boxes also tend to become stinky due to poor ventilation.

There are also those self-cleaning cat boxes available in the market. The self-cleaning feature of these boxes keep the cat box neat and tidy, but they also require some cleaning  from the owner. Every few days the receptacle must be emptied of urine and ***** and sometimes the rake does not get every bit of cat waste so there may be an occasional need for scooping them out.

Style and Features

There is a wide variety of designs, styles and features for cat litter boxes. The owner may have to choose which one will be most convenient for him and his cat.. Below are listed some basic designs for cat litter boxes:

-Basic flat box. This is the simple rectangular pan which is commonly made of plastic. They come in different depths, sizes and colors. This design is preferred by most cats. An innovation to this design whose is to hold the cat box liners in place by securing them under the rim.

-Covered cat boxes or hooded litter boxes. These cat litter boxes look like the traditional open-type rectangular pans except for the addition of the hood which partly covers the box. An opening is situated at one end of the box which serves as the entrance and exit way for the cat. The hood is also positioned high enough so that the cat can stand and do its job with ease and comfort. While they provide “privacy” for the pet, they tend to get very smelly because of poor ventilation inside. Manufacturers of this type of cat boxes have offered a solution to this problem. Some variants of the hooded type have vents on top plus a filter which aids in trapping odors. For this type of cat box, it is recommended that you choose one that is large enough to accommodate the pet, has a hood which can be easily maneuvered for easy cleaning, and large vents.

-Designer boxes. Also known as “hidden boxes”, this type of litter box disguises itself as a furniture piece or even a plant. A designer litter box not only serves to be the cat’s convenient toilet but it can also function as an accent for the room in which it is located. Although the containers are commonly not large enough, there are designs which are big and more open. These are the ones which are more ideal for use. Try to find one which provides good ventilation.

-Sifting Boxes. A few other variants of this type are available in the market but the basic model consists of two rectangular pans and a tray which acts as a sifter.

-Self-cleaning box. These electrical-powered high-end litter boxes work with a sensor which activates the self-cleaning machinery a few minutes after the cat has left the box. The cleaning machinery contains a rake which works its way along the litter to scoop out cat *** and **** into a waste receptacle. There is still the need to occasionally clean the unit, especially the cleaning mechanism itself.

Cost

The basic flat box is the most affordable of all the designs mentioned. The self-cleaning box is obviously the most expensive and their guarantee commonly lasts for only one year. This can be a risk which the owner must consider before actually buying a unit.

Appealing to the Cat

Cats generally do fine with the open box type. Covered boxes offer the “privacy” which some cats like but some cats feel trapped inside them. Owners of designer boxes may find it attractive to put them in places where they will be most appreciated. However, they must be sensitive to the fact that cats most often opt to do their business in a place which is quiet and safe. As for the automated self-cleaning cat litter boxes, some finicky cats may find them comfy since they are clean and spacious. However, they may get psyched out by the mechanical action if they chance to see it actually happen. They might be afraid of using the unit again.

Finding the perfect cat litter box may be a hard task and may require experimentation on the part of the owner. If the owner tries out a box which his pet really does not like, he should not insist on the cat using it. Though this experimentation may become tedious, it can be necessary to find the perfect box for your cat. Providing the cat its preferred litter box can bring good health and satisfaction to both owner and pet, and the carpet as well!

By: Jay Schindler

About the Author:

Visit the Animals Facts website to learn about lion facts and monkey facts.

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Choosing your First Indoor Cat

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008
Deciding to be a pet owner and caregiver is a big responsibility. Owning an indoor cat can bring years of enjoyable pleasure for you and your new companion friend. Although cats are seen as self-reliant, you as the owner will always have to be the diligent parent.

If you’ve never owned any pets before, you should get some pet education before bringing your new furry friend home.

Probably the best way to find out about caring for an indoor cat is to visit the homes of friends who have indoor cats. Your friends can be an excellent resource for what’s going to be required of you to care for a cat. Other resources are community cat clubs, veterinarians, animal shelters, books, tapes, videos, and the Internet.

Before you get your first cat, decide what your commitment to this relationship will be. How much devotion, cost, effort, and attention are you willing to provide to your new friend. Also consider what your personal preferences are for the new family addition. Are you looking for?

Kitten or Adult

Longhair or Shorthair

Male or Female

Breed (Persian, Burmese, etc)

Pedigree or Non-Pedigree

To many, a kitten is a cute, cuddly bundle of joy, just like a new born baby. But like a baby, you’ll need to watch over carefully to the health of the kitten as it grows to adulthood. An adult cat, on the other hand, is more capable of attending to its own personal care.

Hair

Cats shed hair, just like humans. Some breeds shed more hair than others. Cats are fastidious groomers. Be prepared and none too surprised when they vomit a hairball from time to time — completely natural with little cause for alarm. It’s a good practice to routinely brush your cat to collect the loose hair.

Shorthair cats usually need less routine brushing than longhairs. If you brush your cat routinely, they can have less incidents of hairballs and upset digestion. Giving your cat a bath (cat formulated shampoo only) once in a great while is good also.

Gender

Cats are individuals. Both female and male cats can make wonderful companions. If the cat has been spayed or neutered, then the cat’s gender doesn’t play a huge role. The cat’s own unique personality will determine how good of a pet it will make. Your personal preference may be to choose a cat whose personality is agreeable to yours.

Breed

Generally the cat’s breed isn’t a factor and your selection usually is a personal preference.

Pedigree

You may choose a pedigree cat if your intention is to invest, breed, or show. There are other reasons why someone would choose a pedigree over a non-pedigree, and that’s a personal choice. Expect to pay more for a pedigree primarily because its lineage can be traced and its pedigree is highly prized by others.

Non-pedigree cats are just as cute and cuddly as the pedigree. A lot less expensive too!

Summary

A cat is a wonderful addition to your family and will give you many years of enjoyable pleasure.

By: David W Johnson

About the Author:

www.PetFoodStory.com
Veterinarian formulated holistic pet food products for cats and dogs.

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Cat Allergies -A Deeper Look At The Cause -And A Promise For Permanent Relief

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008
Having helped quite a number of people be free from their cat allergies using TAT,(Tapas Acupressure Technique) I have made some really interesting observations.

My philosophy is based on the more and more accepted theory that the allergy problem lies within the body’s energy system, and the cause is a disharmony between the body’s energy and that of the allergen.

It is this disharmony that causes a disruption, or blockage in the energy system which is what sets off the cascade of an inappropriate immune response which result in the allergy symptoms.

The object then is to retrain, or balance the energy system so it is IN harmony with the cat allergen. Once that happens, the allergy symptoms go away completely.

This is a workable theory, as it can be observed time and time again using effective modern techniques. (TAT is only one of several-but probably one of the fastest and most effective.)

But then, what is it that causes the energy system to become unbalanced in the presence of the allergen?

Is there any connection at all with the mind?

Anyone interested in the mind-body connection have read stories of how someone got the phone call that their mother had died as they are watching a bouquet of yellow roses.

Ever since that incident that person was allergic to yellow roses. (Not red ones, or pink ones-only the yellow ones…) The person was even allergic to yellow plastic roses…

Or the case when someone was in a rollover accident, pinned under the car in the grass, gasoline fumes wafting, and after that they get violently ill when around rag weed?

Or the verified cases when someone who is a multiple personality has one personality that is allergic to cats, and the other is not… (They are in the same body, but they have different memories…different memories causing different chemistry.)

So, then, what can be an emotional cause for someone to be allergic to cats?

Well, the causes can vary quite a bit, but in my experience, a frequent reason for someone’s allergy has to do with the bad rap cats have had for hundreds of years.

I’d like to mention here, that it makes no difference if you like or love cats.

The bad rap is pervasive.

Let me explain…

Your mind is like a computer. Some of the data you get is like those temporary internet files- easy to delete.

Then some data gets saved onto your hard drive… Data that came to you from authority figures when you were a child, or data that came when you were in a state of acute stress or fear.

That kind of data was accepted without you having a chance to decide whether you wanted it or not, or whether it was true or not.

But, let’s get back to the cats…

There are “Truths” about cats that resonate within our society. Let’s see if you recognize any of them:

“Cats are sneaky”.

“Cats attack without even being provoked”.

“Cats are mean”.

“Cats are stalkers”.

“Weird people have cats”. (as in the village “witch”)

“Cats can steal a baby’s breath…”

“Cats aren’t safe around babies.”

“The crazy cat lady”

“Black cat crossing in front of you means bad luck”.

Add to that the FACT that in medieval times you could be burned on a stake for owning a cat. Even liking cats could get you killed.

So, many of these things are silly, yes? But, for a child that was told these frightening things, it was not so silly, and could very well have been saved onto the “hard drive”

Now, most of these things are completely on an unconscious level. But,,, these things get into your inner mind, and even though you don’t believe them consciously, they are like a computer program. They will continue to run until you delete them.

I see this all the time working with cat allergies. And I also see that when the issue, or misinformation gets resolved the allergy goes away, for the most part, permanently.

Let me share a story.

(Details have been changed for anonymity )

Donna was severely allergic to cats. She would have reactions being around someone who had been in contact with a cat.

One of her favorite pastimes was garage sales, and shopping in second hand stores. Invariably there would be some item that had been in contact with a cat, requiring Donna to always carry her meds and plenty of tissue on her shopping trips.

Add to that, her grandson lived with 4 cats. When coming to her home he would have to undress in the garage, head straight for the shower and dress in the clothes that Donna provided for him.

Donna sure had some serious reactions to cats…

Gathering some info about Donna’s allergy, she shared that the allergy started when she was pregnant with her first son. Ever since then (34 years ago) she had had severe reactions around cats.

So we did the allergy eliminating session with TAT which at the conclusion includes a statement where you state how you would like to feel around cats.

(Or how your body would like to feel)

Donna stated “I want to be safe around cats”

Now that took me by surprise, since I had already asked if she was afraid of cats, or had a dislike for cats. Or if she had had any incidents with cats.

(Most people with cat allergies are not afraid of cats, on the contrary they like them)

Then she said, almost with an embarrassed chuckle, “Well,,, you know,,, that thing about cats stealing the baby’s breath and all…” adding dismissively, “But that’s just an old wives tale”

So, reading this, you may have light bulbs going off…

Donna’s allergy started when she was pregnant with her first child. She has, even though she rationally knows it is not true, had the belief implanted that “Cats steal the baby’s breath”

Now, what better way for Donna to protect her baby from dying by a cat “stealing it’s breath” than for her to get so seriously ill, a cat could never possibly come anywhere close to her baby?

See, this is how the inner mind works… (Fascinating, no?)

So, we did neutralize that belief using TAT and she had no allergic reactions whatsoever when around cats for a few months.

Then late one evening I get a call from Donna.

“Heeeeeeelp!! I had a bad reaction to a cat yesterday.”

I was curious to find out what had happened…

Donna had visited a friend who had a newborn baby boy. As they are visiting the family’s cat want to join in. As the cat gets closer to the baby, the baby’s father says: ‘Don’t let the cat get to close to the baby, It is not safe”

So that was the problem. We had not completely neutralized the (totally unconscious)

fear Donna had about cats and babies. We did some more TAT addressing the baby issue, and she has not had one reaction since.

Donna could have spent the rest of her life avoiding cats, avoiding people who have had contact with cats, and taking medication when going out shopping.

But, she only needed to clear a misconception she had gotten, probably at a very early age, in order to be completely allergy free, which she is today.

To experience the effects of TAT for yourself, I have a free TAT session you can download on my Cat Allergy website.

By: Eva Marklund

About the Author:

Experience how TAT can help you. To Download a FREE TAT Session Visit My Website http://www.catallergyfree.com Learn How You Too Can Be Permanently Free Of Your Cat Allergies and your Cat Allergy Symptoms

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Elderly Cat Care

Tuesday, September 9th, 2008
Our cats become a part of the family over time. But unlike humans, who are considered elderly at 60 or 65, cats are considered “senior citizens” at the ripe old age of 10. It is important to understand the proper care of cats at all stages of life. A kitten cannot be fed, groomed, medicated, and treated the same way as an elderly cat. Here is a guide to proper Elderly Cat Care.

Feeding Time

Most pet supply stores sell specially formulated cat foods that are designed to provide proper health and nutrition to elderly cats. Some formulas assist with proper digestion, since this can often be a problem with older cats. Senior cats cannot assimilate their food in their digestive tracts in the same way that they did when they were youngsters.

Older cats can also have problems with their teeth that cause them to eat less. This is why it is important to maintain good dental hygiene in cats at a young age by either brushing, taking them to the veterinarian for a cleaning, or feeding them snacks that clean their teeth. If your elderly cat eats less, it may be due to a toothache, thus it is sometimes ideal to feed them softer foods, mostly wet, canned foods, so that chewing their dinner won’t be as much of an obstacle.

Many cat owners find that their cat’s coat becomes dull with age. This is due to poor nutrition. Feed your older cat a diet rich in essential fatty acids to fix this problem. When organisms, including cats, get older, they have an increased production of free radicals in the body. Free radicals contribute to the degeneration of cells in the body. Help build up the immune system of your beloved cat by increasing his or her intake of vitamin C and E.

Finally, you want your cat to remain active in old age. The more energetic activities your cat participates in the better health it will remain in. If you allow your cat to become obese it will lay around the house and have reduced quality of life, as well as a decrease in general health. Watch your pet’s eating habits and assure that it is not overeating, or eating as a recreation as some cats do.

Grooming Elderly Cats

Another element of proper Elderly Cat Care is grooming. When cats age, they sometimes stop grooming themselves with the same frequency as they did when they were younger. This can create a matted fur coat that is dirty and smells bad. Bad hygiene will eventually lead to bad health. Because of this, it is important that you groom your eldery cat yourself. Purchase a good cat brush that doesn’t just brush the outer coat, but one with bristles that reach down to the skin to pull up old hair.

It sometimes helps to give your cat a bath, even though most cats **** them with a passion. The best way to wash a cat is to place them in the tub and gradually introduce water. You certainly don’t want to throw them into the tub with hot water running inside! You may get a deep claw mark in the arm that will never heal and remind you to never do that again. If you apply water gradually to the cat’s coat until they are completely wet and then work in some shampoo quickly, you should be able to accomplish that goal.

Vet Visits and Medication

When your cat grows into old age, it may have health complications that require regular medication. You should schedule a regular vet appointment for your elderly cat to assure that you are keeping up with all details of its health regimen. In older age, cats may seem fine but still have complications. Ask your veterinarian to give your cat a blood and urine test to find out if there is anything to be concerned about to head off any future problems. Going back to dental care, most older cats develop gum disease which can lead to health problems down the line. Gum disease can be treated by your veterinarian.

Just as with a human who has to take daily medication, if your cat has been prescribed to take medications on a daily basis it is helpful to keep everything in one place as a reminder. You do not want to miss a day of any crucial medication as the system of your older cat is much more delicate than those of younger cats.

Pet Insurance

Insurance companies are coming to recognize the love that people have for their pets. Thus, there are many new pet insurance products popping up on the market. It is best to enroll your pet into an insurance program at a younger age to assure a more reasonable premium, but you may still be able to enroll your elderly cat into an insurance program where his or medical bills will be partly covered in the case of a medical emergency. Some pet insurance companies will charge anywhere from $20-$50 per month per cat, depending on their particular situation.

The costs of pet surgeries and treatments can be way out of the budget of most households, so having a pet insurance plan to back you up can be a great asset. It will also give you peace of mind about your cat as it ages.

Activities of the Elderly Cat

The activity level of elderly cats vary. Some cats become inactive and spend most of their day sleeping or sitting. But other cats can be just as active in old age as they were in their younger days. These cats may still like to play with you, run, and chase the other cats around the house, but you just need to be understanding that they may not be able to participate in these games for as long as they used to. For example, a game cats love to play is “chase their owner.” Instead of letting them chase you up and down the stairs as you did when they were young, maybe you could keep the activity to one level of the house. That way you will not overexert your cat and help prolong his time spent active.

Most cat experts agree tht a cat is generally healthy and happy when they are “bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.” Another indication of a healthy cat is a lustrous, shiny coat, and a tail that sticks straight up in the air when the cat is walking. Proper elderly cat care is dire if you love your senior cat and want to keep it in good physical health.

By: David Beart

About the Author:

David Beart is owner of the Professors House, a site dedicated to family, relationships, cat information, and household issues.

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10 Minutes to Train Your Cat

Monday, September 8th, 2008
If you have a cat – or more than one cat – then you’re in the market for some quick and easy training tips. The following tips . . . tricks . . . and techniques cover a variety of situations that most cat owners encounter.

The key to effective training is consistency. Whatever you choose, be sure to do it on regularly, otherwise, you’ll be sending your cat mixed signals. And that will only make it that much harder to train her. Forget about cat training in 10 minutes!

Below are ten “must have” tips that will get you through your initial phase cat ownership.

1. Cats really don’t care that you punish them. It’s true. If you’ve owned a dog, you know that punishing him will help change his behavior. It doesn’t with cats. Bottom line. Don’t waste your time. They’ll sit there purring at you and just perform that same behavior again.

2. Corporal punishment is out of the question. Because a cat’s body is so delicate, you can’t “spank” a cat the way you do a dog to get its attention. That means when you’re training your cat, you have to match wits with it. Don’t worry. I’m confident you’ll win. There are things out there like cat clicker training, but I don’t recommend it.

3. Use a form of positive reinforcement. As you become a seasoned cat owner, you’ll discover that it’s difficult to catch your cat in the actual “crime”. It’s far easier, then, to reward your cat when you see her performing a right behavior. Keep some cat “treats” on hand. Feed one to your cat whenever she is doing something positive – like using the litter box or using her scratching post.

4. Keep plenty of toys – either store bought or make shift – around the house. Much of the “bad” behavior of cats is simply because they’re board. The feline is by nature a predatory animal. Remember the scene in the Disney movie, The Lion King, where little Simba gets “pouncing lessons.” When you think your cat is literally bouncing off the walls and tearing down the curtains, he’s only practicing his predatory skills. Provide him with alternatives and he’ll tame down – at least some.

5. When you’re away, keep him busy. If your cat is used to company, he may get bored and inadvertently destruction while you’re at work or are gone for any length of time. Here’s a quick hint. Buy a timer for your television set, make sure the TV is tuned to an animal-friendly channel (an outdoor channel or Animal Planet for instance) and then have the television automatically turn on at different times of the day. Cats can see images on the screen. He’ll come to investigate the noise and stay to watch the picture – at least for a while.

6. The value of a spray bottle of water. In some instances, spraying a cat with a harmless water bottle is enough to get their attention and stop the bad behavior. You only need a simple spray bottle that you use for misting plants. ****** the cat if it misbehaves. Soon, he’ll know that he can’t do that.

7. Blow a harmless puff of air in your cat’s face. Yes, this sounds crazy, but it really works. If your cat is literally in your face and you need to teach him to keep a certain distance and give you some space, try it. Blow a puff of air into his face. It’ll startle and puzzle him. Soon, he’ll associate the two and you won’t be bothered by the unpleasant attention he gives you.

8. Make sure you cat has “a room with a view”. You know what they say, “curiosity killed the cat.” More appropriately, an irate owner went berserk over something a bored cat got into. Much of the bad behavior of your cat is simply due to his innate curiosity. Make sure he has a ledge or window sill that he can sit in comfortably to check out the birds and squirrels in your yard. If your window sill isn’t large enough for him to sit for extended periods, you can by an extension at the pet store. Or, if someone you know is handy, you can make your own.

9. Spend quality time with your cat. As a training technique, this may sound a bit unorthodox. But, it’s really a savvy move on your part. The more time you spend with your kitty, the better you’ll be able to communicate with her. Cats definitely have a form of communication skills that involves more than just “talking.” The better you know your cat – and just as importantly, the better your cat knows you – you’ll be able “to read her mind”. You’ll just “know” when she’s considering an improper move. And she’ll know when you disapprove just by reading your body language and the look on your face.

10. Confine the aggressive cat. Reward the victim. Got more than one cat? Then you probably have that occasional “cat fight.” Felines are territorial animals. They will get into a fight now and then over their “catdom.” If you view the fight, your first step is to disengage the action. Using a water sprayer is the best method. ****** the aggressor. Try to avoid ********* the victim. After that, confine the “bully” in a less attractive space. In the meantime, reward the cat who didn’t attack – even when she was being attacked. Give her a treat and let her free roam the house. When you do put this pair of felines together again, try to keep them as supervised as possible.

These ideas are only the tip of the iceberg when you’re training your cat. As you and your pet begin to know each better, you’ll discover a language of your own. It may be through speech – you talk and she meows. But more than likely, the two of you will eventually be able to read each other’s body language. You’ll soon learn the subtle nuances of this very effective form of communication . . . and teaching your cat what she needs to know will be easier than you can ever imagine.

By: Jim Moore

About the Author:

Jim Moore has come to appreciate throughout his life how you should take care and give loving attention to your cat. Jim owns and maintains http://www.apurrfectcat.com.

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